With the stock Solex carburetors or their modern Brosol and Bocar replacements , the air correction jet is usually in the 110-130 size range. If they are left off, the underside engine finning is exposed to the turbulent high pressure air under the car and poor cooling will result. The meter probe in boiling water reads about 210 at 1100 feet above sea level. Vince Hi: Would you be able to clear up some conflicting info on your web site. Actual product may differ in appearance.
Also, when I was driving the car home from 2000-2500 rpm I would get buzzer and light blinking but would go out when revved or if car was driven at 3000 rpm. I feel that when the engine is running properly and you are familiar with the sound, it's simply enough to stop and check the engine from behind rather than clutter the dash with a lot of ugly gauges. The problem with oil temperature gauge is threefold: 1. If all else fails you could try swapping in a cluster from a junkyard. Apparently vibration and rubbing caused a short wore a hole in the insulation on the backup lights wire and burned off the insulation. In other forum somebody mentioned something about the battery disconecting might make the light blink.
~~~ Note: Dave installed a fiberglass rear apron on his '73 Super Beetle. It usually takes a couple of minutes to come on. The light will blink sometimes, the buzzer will go off, and off and off. It's also the case that previous engines with only one sensor had the 0. I have a fuel starvation issue that I'm hoping to have solved tomorrow. I have a '97 Canadian turbo-diesel Golf. A larger main jet makes for more evaporative cooling of the inlet, so the engine runs cooler.
If you know that the thermostat is expanded when the engine is hot, removing it will not provide any extra cooling. When it warms up oil at 90 deg and water at first marker - as high as it goes the oil light flashes at idle, anything over 1000rpm and its off. This happens both with a cold and a warm engine. These turn the used cooling air backwards to the rear of the car. Hence the difficulty in avoiding confusion. . My guess: your problems lie elsewhere.
~~~ The Starter Motor The only real test you can do on the starter motor is to bypass all of the ignition switch wiring and test it directly by shorting out the little terminal on the starter to the big terminal which in fact is what the ignition switch does. The usual question remains, of course: is your engine starting to develop low oil pressure or do you have a sensor starting to get twitchy? It's generally the sprocket-side bearing that wears and it can be checked for flaking wear with the engine in the car. I don't have any mechanical gauges like an oil pressure gauge at this time, but may install one soon. Disconnect the wire to the hi pressure sensor on the filter flange and let it dangle. Connection to the Oil Pressure Sensor. Stainless steel micron filter can be cleaned and reused. Dave learned this lesson in a very sad way.
I have a hard time believing it's this because once it starts buzzing there's the pattern I mentioned above. I can't actually think of anything you could do to the head that would cause low oil pressure directly at the flange. The instructions that come with this sensor say to drill another hole in the plate, to one side of the plug, thread it, and install the sensor there. The last cam journal is very worn and gushing oil. Changed the head gasket and bolts, etc.
Thank you for your thoughts!!! Just use the minimum diameter that will go over the wires etc and the heat hair drier should do it will shrink it tight -- it has a limited amount of shrinkage. I understand the bearings part, it now makes sense that it can be that. I can't find it on any wiring diagram. I got some useful work done on my '70 Bug this weekend. ~~~ The Ignition Switch Regarding ignition switch replacement, Dave wrote - I searched our Web site and found that we have nothing regarding replacement of the ignition switch. Dave responded - I presume that unless the wire from the ignition switch has fried, I should have 12V at the Compufire, since the pink wire that goes to it splices directly into the wire from the ignition switch.
So then he has been trying to figure it out and no luck. Head temps increase further when you climb hills as try to maintain your speed. I don't know the brand used tho. If your engine does not have a dual relief system, you will have to install the oil temperature sensor in a hole you drill and tap in the oil sump plate. Product Images are representative only.