If everything else was connected besides this harness, would the car still start? However, I think there is a real good possibility that if you find the problem with one of these circuits, the problem with the others will be close by. If repair information is not available, go to next step. If ignition coil is okay, go to step 21. They said bring it back when it dies or is just about to, it would be easier to find the problem then. So if any one can elaborate on these two codes it would be greatly appreciated. Plugged or restricted fuel filter.
Not an auto repair expert? If timing light does not flash as specified, go to next step. If no vacuum is present at hose, check hose routing. You need to start a new thread in the escort section and also check your timing belt. Cycle ignition switch from off to on. I will let you know if it cured my nightmare. Cleaning the contacts fixed the problem, but unfortunately for me my catalytic converter had a melt-down from raw gas igniting in it before I traced the problem to this area.
Maybe I'm not searching right but I can't find any straight answers on this thing. If compression is as specified, go to next step. If fuel line pressure is okay, go to step 16. Technically, you have three separate circuit failures no matter how it came about. I suggest you download it and look it over. I am not going to post those but just showing you the possibilities of the manual. Blow air through purge solenoid valve.
I reconnected it and it made no difference. It raise the fuel pressure for an amount of time, when restarting, to enrich the fuel mixture. They see the check engine light that won't go away after reset but they can't find anything wrong, all voltages and parameters are within spec. The check engine light begins to flash and then turns solid and stays on until I reset it with my code reader. If fuel line pressure is to high, go to next step. The only code it reads is P300 random Mis-Fire.
So I need to know where it is and what it is. You can disable it, the worst it could do is to take 3-4 sec. The Standard Fuel Pressure Regulators are guaranteed to give total functionality on fuel delivery and engine performance. The car will be running just fine when out of the blue it will loose power and start running rough like a severe mis-fire. If no problem is found, go to next step. They are available for the following Mazda Protege5 years: 2003, 2002, 03, 02.
Turn ignition on, engine off. Diagnose and repair as necessary and go to step 21. If everything else was connected besides this harness, would the car still start? Here is the rest from the manual. There's 2 kinds of fuel pressure regulators. If ignition coil is faulty, replace ignition coil and go to step 21.
You can't feel any rough engine idle or power lose. Here is the weird thing, it goes away as quickly as it came on. Vacuum hoses damaged or improperly connected. Beck Arnley's years of experience and proficiency in global sourcing provides vehicle owners the precise part for the right and most up-to-date vehicle applications. If compression is not as specified, repair as necessary and go to step 21.
But I am constantly throwing the code for this and for the rear O2 sensor P0037. I would guess that this was done by the previous owner. We've worked hard over 11 years designing a website experience that makes it easy for anyone to idenify whether parts fit their car. Check for leaks in fuel system from fuel pump to fuel rail. We here at Auto Parts Warehouse want to make sure you're happy with your car part purchases. If maximum fuel pump pressure is 64-92 psi 4. Would i be able to eliminate it by just connecting the two vacuum lines together so the fuel pressure regulator sees full vacuum all the time? I notice that the valve's 2 prong wiring harness is disconnected.
I bought this car new and have never had any problem with it until now. This is a continuous monitor. If fuel pump circuit is okay, replace fuel pump and go to step 21. Start engine and allow to idle. Plugged or restricted fuel line.